Thursday, September 14th 2006


T-accessible sites: area cemeteries #1: Mt. Auburn
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 10:23 am in [ MBTA - Boston - parks - nonesuch ]

‘Tis the season to visit your local cemeteries! There are some gorgeous burial grounds in these parts, and autumn’s the time to take ‘em in.

I recently paid a visit to Mt. Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge. It was a beautiful, crisp, clear day, perfect for climbing Washington Tower, with its marvelous view of Boston.

Well, OK, maybe “marvelous” is too marvelous a word for it. I mean, it’s still Boston. But it’s a nice view. As good a view as you’re likely to get, anyway.

I was there with my old friend Robert, the one who dragged me through the mega-maze the week before. And as you might expect given a trip to the graveyard, we got to talking about bodies, and what to do with them when you’re done with them (or what you arrange to have done with them once they’re done with you, which is the more likely scenario). I said I wanted mine disposed of in the most expedient manner possible, and thought cremation would do just fine. He objected to cremation, on environmental grounds. Chemicals and things, I guess. But until they come up with some sort of deep-space laser-blaster particle-dispersal mechanism, cremation will have to do. I certainly don’t want to be embalmed. I don’t want my body displayed (it’s as creepy as people staring at you when you’re sleeping). And I would never, never, never leave my body to science, for fear that it would end up in the hands of first year med students, who would give my corpse a pet name, and then cut off my head, hands and penis for laughs. No thank you.

If you want to know some of the ways in which your corpse is put to use when you leave it to Science, Mary Roach’s Stiff: The Curious Lives of Human Cadavers is a good read. But not on a full stomach.

Robert said he didn’t know why I should care what happened to my body after I’d vacated it. It wouldn’t be me, after all. Just my body. Which I would no longer be in.

Well, whatever. I wasn’t going to get into that whole mind-body thing again with him. You know, I can understand if you have a contentious relationship with your body–and who doesn’t?–you might be thinking, good riddens! But it’s not that cut and dry. The fact is, we are our bodies (I feel like a property dualist today). If you don’t agree with the our bodies, ourselves hypothesis, go talk to some poor short, bald slob with bad teeth who’s making ten grand less than his coworker in the next cubicle, who’s a foot taller with a full head of hair and a mouthful of pearly whites. Go tell it to the disagreeable dude with the little prick in the giant SUV, honking his impotent horn and screaming obscenities at the guy in the minicooper with the placid demeanor who’s slung like an ox (trust me, I’ve done a lot of research on this, and size really does matter). Or the plain jane with irritable bowel syndrome and a persistant skin rash who can’t enjoy a day out with her perky roommate, who looks like Angelina Jolie, can eat all the ice cream she wants and never get fat, and loves to bungie jump with her hunky boyfriend, Brad. Not to mention that epilepsy, schizophrenia, clinical depression, and alcoholism are all physical ailments that play a huge role in bahavior, character, and personality–in who we are to ourselves and others.

But even in those of us without serious physical and mental conditions, don’t underestimate the power of a hardy constitution–or, conversely, the power of irritable bowels: our personalities and our characters are very much shaped by these things, too. The idea that there is some pristine spirit unaffected by the physical that’s just waiting to take flight from its gnarly old body is wishful thinking (mostly of those with irritable bowels, I think).

But I didn’t get into any of this with Robert, really. All I said was, I think of my body as a buddy, a companion in this life, and I would not want to think of it being molested in any way while I was helpless to prevent it. Maybe I’m selfish, but we came into this world together, and I would like us to go out together, too. I think a healthy concern for your own corpse is a quite natural extension of the survival instinct that’s kept you and your body together all your life.

He said, still, you won’t know any better, whatever the case. The only people it should matter to are those you leave behind.

He was actually rather strident on the point, but the fact remains, my remains are my remains. If he wants his thrown to wild dogs, I have no particular objections. What you do or have done with your body is up to you in the end. I, personally, have few sentimental attachments, aside from this. I have an odd affection for this vessel, and I don’t want to cast it off like some old junker I drove into the ground. Remember that Neil Young song, “Long May You Run”?

Weve been through some things together
With trunks of memories still to come
We found things to do in stormy weather
Long may you run.

Long may you run.
Long may you run.
Although these changes have come
With your chrome heart shining in the sun
Long may you run.

That was a tribute to his car, for chrissake. People love their cars like that, I can love my corpse.

Robert had expressed some interest in seeing the “Body Worlds” show at the Museum of Science, which I’d first read about a decade ago in The London Review of Books (I was so much smarter then than I am now), on a train from Frankfurt (and well-traveled, too), as I recall. (I mention all this only because I want to stress I worked through any issues I may have had with Creepy Dr. von Hagens long ago.) Der gute Doktor was taking his traveling macabre to all the capitals of Europe. There was a bigger hooha over the plastination and display of skinned bodies over there than there has been over here, surprisingly. I think if an American had done it we might have been more alarmed by it. We’ve come to expect this sort of thing from creepy doctors with German accents, and von Hagens definitely has that shtick down:

You can bet he’s wearing black leather gloves, too.

I do think it’s all in the worst possible taste, though I wouldn’t say it’s immoral. (Bad taste should be immoral, but it’s not.) And it’s not that I’m not all rah-rah! for science, either. But, anyway, von Hagens is more a showman than a scientist in the end. Defying British law he performed a public autopsy (the first in nearly 170 years) in the Old Truman Brewery in London’s Brick Lane back in 2002, and the reviews were luke warm at best. One eyewitness said von Hagens “often appeared out of his depth.” The Guardian reported: “He struggled to saw open the skull, handing over his hacksaw to an assistant as the bone splintered, and couldn’t find the pancreas.”

Von Hagens himself says he’s part artist, part scientist, but do his plastinated corpses hold up as art? I don’t think so. They’re spectacle. Period. they’re corpse as kitsch. You want art from corpses, take the sometimes appalling, often breathtaking, always horrifically beautiful photographs of Joel-Peter Witkin:


Joel-Peter Witkin’s Glassman, 1990.

Witkin’s pictures call to mind the beauty of Baudelaire’s “Une Charogne“: “And the sky was watching that superb cadaver/Blossom like a flower.”

Hmm.

Should my corpse survive me, that’s what I hope it will aspire to.

To get to Mt. Auburn Cemetery via T: At Harvard Square Station (Red Line), take either the Watertown Square or Waverley Square trolley (#71 or #73). Get off on Mount Auburn Street at Aberdeen Avenue. Cross Mount Auburn Street to the Entrance Gate.




Thursday, September 14th 2006


Fake Filene’s Basement in the Newbry is a Hit!
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 7:16 am in [ MBTA ]

First of all, the new Filene’s Basement isn’t in a basement. That’d set off some sirens, you’d think. But maybe it’s “basement,” in a figurative sense, as in “bargain basement” prices? Well, they’re hyping it as an “upscale” venue now. An upscale Filene’s Basement? Isn’t that kind of an oxymoron? Hmm. Filene’s Basement is dead. Long live Filene’s Basement.




Monday, September 11th 2006


a trip to the MFA, where our hero encounters Whistler’s Mother in a crowd, surrounded by snakes, lobsters, fish and frogs, and various and sundry very naughty animals, domesticated and wild
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 12:18 pm in [ MBTA - Boston - nonesuch ]

Fortunately, a friend of mine was able to wrangle up some free tickets to the “Americans in Paris” exhibition at the MFA. I say “fortunately” because after seeing it, I know I would have been upset by it had I paid twenty-three bucks to get in. Sunday morning was definitely not the time to go. Here’s what it was like:

It should be heartening to see so many people getting excited about 19th Century art, I guess. But it’s actually not hard to see the appeal (it was much harder to see the art, in fact)–not much has really changed since then, as for the aspirations of the middle class. Styles of dress have come and gone, but the modus operandi is intact. We can still identify fully with Mary Cassatt’s subjects. We may think we have come a long way, baby, since Sargent’s Madame X scandalized society in 1884, but artists and advertisers are operating along the same lines today.

Aside from Madame X, the show’s centerpiece seems to have been Whistler’s Arrangement in Grey and Black: The Artist’s Mother, 1871, which people in the gallery flocked to, for some reason. There seems to be a sentimental attachment to the picture that goes utterly counter to the artist’s intentions for it. He painted it as an arrangement of objects, essentially, not as a portrait. But sentimentality was the lens through which art and culture were viewed by the bourgeois in the Victorian era. And not much has changed in this, either.

“Whistler’s Mother” was given a wall of its own, which further lent it an aura of importance. The exhibition organizers seemed to say, “lookit, here’s something.” I’m not sure if it would have commanded quite as much attention if it had been presented differently. Not that it’s not worthy, in its way. It’s an interesting picture, with an interesting past, for sure.

I didn’t spend much time scrutinizing it, myself, though. It was hard to spend much time with any one painting, there were so many people pressing to get up close and personal with all of them. It was so crowded and stuffy in the hall, that we didn’t spend much time there–I think we were probably in and out in fifteen minutes.

I decided it would be more fun to hunt the halls of the MFA for animal portraiture, anyway. This took us to several galleries, where we found some snakes, lobsters, fish and frogs:

(All on this delightful mid-16th century oval platter attributed to Bernard Pallisy, which my friend said would be an absolute bitch to clean. I told him, not to worry, we have people for that. He scoffed, saying, “and anyway what on earth would you serve in it?” I told him I thought Jell-O would be cool.)

And, of course there were lots of dogs, doing what dogs do. Far too many for this humble blog (they deserve an art-dog blog of their own). But here are a couple of my favorites:

Emanuel de Witte’s Interior of the Nieuwe Kerk, Amsterdam, 1677

and:

David Teniers, The Younger’sButcher Shop, 1642

On our way out of the museum we had to drop by the Rococo Room, where they’ve got this magnificent Boucher displayed:

Now, what would you guess the title of this painting is? The Battle of…? Perhaps The Triumph of…?Actually it’s Return from Market. What an ordeal, eh? All for a few eggs, a hunk of cheese, and a loaf of bread. It reminded me a little of getting to Trader Joe’s by T, truth be told.



Monday, September 11th 2006


Great Moments in T cinematic History: Next Stop Wonderland
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 9:20 am in [ MBTA - fear & loathing in Boston - city life - Boston ]
I caught the last half of Next Stop Wonderland, which was released back in ‘98 but which I did not rush right out and see at the time for some reason, last night. Let me just say, first of all: she should have gone to Brazil, because if there were a Wonderland II, Orange Line (Next stop: Roxbury Crossing!), Hope Davis would have found that the dude whose armpit she wound up in (the actor’s name is Cheeseman, for chrissake) was a freakin crystal meth addict who was going to end up stealing her paychecks and blowing all their income on cross-dressing prostitutes he’s picked up at Jacques, thus forcing them to live two blocks from Jackson Square.

I did find the scene where she finally meets Mr. He’ll-Have-To-Do fairly accurate, I have to say. She’s on her way to the airport via blue line train, to catch a flight to São Paulo with some guy (well, not just some guy–the muito delicioso José Zúñiga, for the love of pete) she met only a couple days before. But she’s got misgivings. See, he’s a little too something for her. You know, his je ne sais quoi is off the charts. Mostly what he had too much of, seemed like to me, was sex appeal. Because everyone else in this movie was just utterly Blah. Ol’ hopeless Hope could’ve used someone like José to find her freak switch, and flip it on for her. Instead, she finds herself in thin-lipped Cheeseman’s armpit, totally intoxicated by his cheesiness, apparently, and they run off to Revere Beach together. Now, that’s romance!

Anyway, what I found accurate, as I was saying, was when she’s on the blue line train, before ending up in Cheeseman’s armpit, and she looks around at all the people crowded into it during the morning rush hour, and it’s like the train of the living dead. I thought, right on. That’s it. You look around on the T and that’s just what you see. Zombies. Thinking to themselves: “why can’t I just die, already?”

And then she runs off with one of the living dead, to have zombie crack babies (hey, that’d be a great name for a band, don’t you think?)! And José finds another blonde on the plane to make eyes at and serenade with samba. All’s well that ends well.




Monday, September 11th 2006


I guess it could be worse
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 7:07 am in [ MBTA ]
Check out these shots of the Moscow subway.



Friday, September 8th 2006


T muck
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 8:36 pm in [ MBTA - ACHTUNG, baby! - AFC ]
I’ve been on the T these past few days a little more than usual (which lately has been never). See, mein netter kleiner Freund, Marcus, doesn’t have ein nettes kleines Fahrrad, so we are at the mercy of die Arschloche am MBTA.

I don’t think I have to say I have not been particularly heartened by anything I’ve seen since my return to the scene. One thing I experienced firsthand last week was the switch to AFC at Hynes. All I can say is I’m still amazed that so far this has been a bloodless transition. In fact, the way this system is being implemented—the brazen incompetence—the bald disregard for common sense—the in-your-face if-you-don’t-lke-it-then-walk attitude—we should be calling for that smug little weasel Grabauskas’s head on a freakin platter.

But then you get on the T and look around, and it’s like, Crikey, this is the muck at the bottom of the gene pool here. Somebody get the algaecide and the leaf rake quick! Seriously, look around. The T should be charging five bucks a trip. Ten. I mean, why not? Anyone with any self-respect has already found an alternative mode of transportation.

I know, maybe I’m being a little harsh, but I was on the T the other day and it was one of those morning rush hour trips where we rolled out of the station, got about ten feet and then stopped, sat for a minute, rolled another three feet, stopped again, and so on. It took us about twenty minutes to get from JFK to Andrew. It seriously would have been faster to walk. But you look around, and people were just, like, “what?” It’s business as usual.

I’ve said it before, I’ll say it again. Just as a nation gets the leaders it deserves, and a park gets the squirrels it deserves, a city gets the subway it deserves. Suck it up, Boston.




Friday, September 8th 2006


Starts & Stops with Charlie
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 9:58 am in [ MBTA - AFC ]



Monday, September 4th 2006


why Jeff Jacoby is a svelte* schlub
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 9:05 am in [ MBTA - fear & loathing in Boston - Boston - cycling in Boston - alternative transportation ]
I generally skip Jeff Jacoby’s column in the Globe, but this rant about “car-haters and PC nannies” caught my eye yesterday. I’m surprised he left out Al Qaeda, since it’s common knowledge that all bicyclists belong to the terrorist organization. Anyway, I just had to pass it on to anyone who missed it:

“Traffic congestion is choking our cities, hurting our economy, and reducing our quality of life,” begins a new report from the Reason Foundation, a libertarian think tank. Rush-hour gridlock paralyzes 39,500 lane-miles of roadway each year, eating up $63 billion in lost time and fuel. But much worse is to come.

By 2030, the number of severely congested lane-miles will reach nearly 60,000 per year, an increase of more than 50 percent. Commuters in the largest metropolitan areas will spend 65 percent more time in traffic than they do now . Within 25 years, at least a dozen major cities will be choked with travel delays worse than in today’s Los Angeles, whose notorious congestion is the worst in America.

The solution is the obvious one: Build more highways, and manage them more intelligently. “The old canard ‘we can’t build our way out of congestion’ is not true,” the authors write.

They estimate that 104,000 new lane-miles will be needed by 2030, at a cost of about $21 billion a year, much of which could be raised through electronic tolling. The return on that investment would be a stunning 7.7 billion fewer hours spent in traffic each year, along with all the wealth and freedom those time savings would generate.

All this is heresy, of course, to the car-haters and PC nannies who are forever lecturing us to quit driving and use mass transit. But we are overwhelmingly a nation of drivers; the real “mass transit” is the traffic on our highways. If the highways don’t grow to keep up with that traffic, the strangulating misery of gridlock will only get worse.

I am convinced that Jacoby, like his shiksa counterpart Ann Coulter, is actually a radical leftwinger, mercilessly parodying the unyielding idiocy of the right week after week in his column. I mean, he can’t be for real.

*Originally “a fat schlub,” my fact-checker, Dani B., assures me Mr. Jacoby actually has a pretty tricky figure (see comment #2 to this post).




Monday, September 4th 2006


don’t swipe some Charlie Tickets…
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 8:56 am in [ MBTA - AFC ]

HERE.




Thursday, August 31st 2006


Mike and Markus’s Excellent Adventure
posted by Mike Mennonno @ 9:15 am in [ MBTA - city life - Boston - AFC ]

I took a long walk yesterday with my friend Markus from Tübingen, Germany, who is in town to get his MA in English. He had been staying in the YWCA (he claims not to have known what the “W” stood for) while looking for an apartment. He found one, but when we met at Back Bay Station yesterday he said he had to go back to the YWCA to leave his phone number for someone there. So we headed in that direction.

When we got there I waited outside on the corner of Berkeley and Appleton for him. I’ve been over there countless times through the years, but it’s really not until you find yourself just standing there looking around that you see things. And I’d just never really had occasion to stand around on that particular corner before. So when I looked across the street and saw this:

I was sort of surprised. Was it once a synagogue? When I got home I did a little research. The only mention I could find online was a brief one from The Boston Walks “Jewish Friendship Trail” site, that listed Berkeley and Appleton as stop #4, and said of the intersection simply:

“…near the corner of Berkeley and Appleton Streets, we can glimpse a vivid reason why Jews felt comfortable occupying several communal buildings at this intersection. Here, in the first floor of the Theodore Parker meeting house, Adath Israel ran its Sunday school beginning in 1875.”

If this is the Theodore Parker House–and it may or may not be–I don’t know why it would have a Star of David figuring prominently in the design, since Parker was not a Jew. He was an abolitionist, transcendentalist, deposed Unitarian minister (you know he was radical if he got chucked out of the Unitarian Church), and finally head of the Twenty-eighth Congregational Society of Boston, whose Appleton Street Chapel was built at the corner of Berkeley and Appleton Streets around the time the building in the picture was.

So, my curiosity is piqued. If anyone knows anything about any of this, give me a shout.

Marcus joined me after a few minutes’ musing on the street corner there, and we headed to Back Bay, eventually making our way through the public garden, for a stroll on Beacon Hill, where I noticed this in passing:

A found phallus. Just thought I’d share.

We walked from there to the Charles and found a park bench, and Markus ate a plum. And we watched the sky:

Then we decided to go to Cambridge. So we walked to the Charles/MGH T station. It has yet to be automated, and here, again, the T’s utter incompetence in this process was on glorious display. We could not use our Charlie Tickets, of course, and found ourselves scrambling to come up with change. Markus got his token, and then I handed the man in the token booth two dollar bills–I am absolutely sure of it–and asked for “one, please.” I got two tokens, and fifty cents back. For some reason. I didn’t complain. Seventy-five cents a trip seems totally reasonable to me. I think that’s about what the T’s worth these days. I felt somewhat, slightly–but only slightly–compensated for all the inconveniences. It could be a secret policy of theirs, to quell the fury of the masses with little random giveaways like this, making you sort of complicit in the conspiracy. I mean, you sort of think, OK, the incompetence is bearable if I get a free ride out of it occasionally.

In Cambridge we walked around Harvard Yard. I showed Markus a swarm of tourists who had come all the way from Southeast Asia to polish John Harvard’s shoe, even though it’s not really John Harvard. I asked him if he wanted to do it, too, and he said he would pass.

We had a quick bite to eat at the Friendly EATING PLACE on Mass Ave at Dana Street (roughly midway between Harvard and Central Squares). It’s been there forever, and as far as I have ever been able to tell, it’s no friendlier than any other EATING PLACE in the neighborhood, though no less friendly on the whole, either. The sign facing Dana Street is the most strictly accurate, reading simply “EATING PLACE.” Although people also talk and laugh and drink and watch the TV in the corner, and day-dream, and worry, and look at passersby through the window. But if you want to be all functional about it, I suppose it is an “eating place” first, and an all-those-other-things place second. The eats are, however, so-so at best.

So, we hopped back on the T at Central Square, where, of course, we could not use our tokens, and Markus’s Charlie Ticket was out of funds, and the train was coming, and I ran my ticket through, and next thing I know, Markus jumps through with me. No buzzers buzzed, no red lights flashed, and no one was in the station to do anything about it if they had. This was my first fare evasion experience (albeit a passive one) with the new automated system, and to be perfectly honest, it was painless.

Not that I myself would actively evade paying my fare, but I’m not one of those people who a bag of money drops out of the sky and lands on their heads and they go turn it into the authorities, either. You know, if the universe offers you a free ride, take it. It’ll all even out in the end. I’ve lost plenty of money feeding the T’s old token vending machines, and if the gods of the underground are seeing fit to pay me back a bit at the moment who am I to question their wisdom? Am I gonna spit in the eye of Providence?